I spent the last five days in Southern California and wanted to highlight my favorite aspects of the trip. This area is an outdoorsy person’s paradise with so many great runs and hikes. There is almost no need to go into the city, unless Rodeo Drive and Hollywood are your jam, because the playgrounds around LA and San Diego are endless.
First up, running in Santa Monica. To my chagrin, RW beat me to it and did a feature on running in LA in their last issue. Oh well, this is my perspective on Palisades Park, the Marvin Braude Bike Trail aka ” The Strand”, and a wicked set of stairs. In June there is often the infamous “June Gloom” or the marine layer creating fog and low-lying clouds that eventually burn off in the afternoon. This can make for a low-visibility humid run BUT worth it regardless and if you come outside of June you will probably be golden!
I start from approximately 6th and Montana and head down to Ocean Avenue, but you could start right from Palisades Park if you are coming from further away or want to cut out the Santa Monica neighborhoods on the run. I like to warm up with a lap through Palisades Park (about .5 miles) where you will pass many other runners, bikers, yogis, skateboarders: you name it. On the way back you arrive at the stairs across from Montana Avenue. They go straight down the bluffs leading to the beach via an overpass crossing the Pacific Coast Highway (PCH). When you come off the overpass turn left, go through the parking lot, and there you are on the bike trail. You can go left toward Venice or right toward Malibu. I prefer going right. It is less crowded and the views of the Santa Monica Mountains in the distance make for a gorgeous backdrop! I run out about 2 miles and hit my turn around enjoying the ocean breeze and the other people partaking in an array of activities from sand volleyball or frisbee on the beach to rollerblading and running on the Strand.
On the way back you can see the Santa Monica pier in the background with its famous Ferris wheel. Once you arrive back to the overpass it is time to tackle the wooden stairs. I like to just go full force and sprint to the top, reaching Palisades Park out of breath, panting, and near death so I can turn around and spend a few moments feeling triumphant and taking in the view below. Marine layer or not its gorgeous! An alternative option is a stair workout where you skip the Palisades warm-up and go down to the Strand for a short jog then return to the stairs to attack them as many times as you would like. I did this Tuesday and I made it three times, at full effort, before my quads and glutes felt like noodles. Hopefully you can get more than three! After again taking in the view with triumph and awe I head back down Montana to my temporary home.
Second, a gorgeous park and an epic hike at Lake Poway and the Mount Woodson Trail leading to Potato Chip Rock. Many of you have heard of Potato Chip Rock and if not just check the # on IG. From what I know the rock has actually become Insta-famous. Pretty cool for an inanimate object! This is not a running trail, although I am sure that some hard a**es out there could tackle the 3.5 miles uphill. I found it much more enjoyable (when enjoyable means degrading and soul crushing in 90+ temps) to hike with a pack full of water. I suggest starting early, by 7am, but we were driving from LA so even with a 5:30am wake up we couldn’t start until about 10am. We lathered ourselves in sunscreen and headed out with our Camelbak and frozen water bottles.
***I have to stress that you seriously cannot bring too much water on a hike. Its approximately 3-4 hours roundtrip depending on your speed and time you spend at the top and entirely uphill on the way there. The terrain is chaparral with virtually no shade so even on the way down you are in the sun. I was running through procedures for treating heat stroke in my mind as I saw countless groups with little to no water on them. A group of lovely older gentlemen asked me if I was training to hike Aconcagua with my large pack, but jokes aside agreed that carrying several liters of water was the smart choice. (I am climbing Macchu Picchu in August so I suppose it was training). Bottom Line: Carry water, force hydrate.
The hike takes you around gorgeous Lake Poway and to the Mount Woodson Trail. Thanks to a wonderful group of mostly retired academics the trail is well maintained and easy to follow. You pass hills covered in giant boulders worn smooth from wildfires and the Santa Ana winds. You continue up, up, and up with breathtaking views displaying miles of San Diego County until you reach the near-summit of Mount Woodson and the famous Potato Chip Rock. There is a short line at the top as everyone has to take his or her photos and it requires some maneuvering to reach the actual rock.
Kristen and I found the only shade on the peak and enjoyed turkey sandwiches while the line died down. After posing in classic potato chip rock fashion we began the descent. We jogged a bit, chatted a lot more than on the way up, and found a rock that clearly looked like a giant butt with which we posed inappropriately.
The best part of the day, however, came when we ran into those same men who asked me about my pack on the way up, those mostly retired academics that I mentioned. They were covered in dirt, relaxing, and drinking beer when we struck up a conversation. These men, known as the Poway Trail Crew, volunteer to maintain the trail and their leader, Mike, actually built the original trail leading to PCR over 20 years ago. At 73 he is still out there rocking a long white man bun and maintaining the trail. They were guys with PhDs in physics and psychology spending their free time giving back to the landscape they love. They were kind enough to stop sipping their beer and smile for a photo.
Mike decided he would head back with Kristen and I and an awesome guided tour of the San Diego county chaparral commenced. We learned about the plant life, the animal inhabitants, and the formation of the mountains and the effects of wildfires. We crushed sage and sniffed its aromas, identified parasitic species, contemplated fascinating Yucca plants, and watched vulture circle overhead (thank goodness not for long). A chance encounter turned into an educational experience and a deeper appreciation of the land we were traversing. I can’t guarantee an encounter with these wonderful gentleman but they do go out once or twice a week so if you hike in the morning there is a good chance! Even with our leisurely nature stroll at the end our round-trip took about 3.5 hours and was worth every step!
Lastly, Point Dume State Beach. I spent my last day in SoCal soaking up rays and jumping waves at Point Dume State beach in Malibu, CA. The beach has an $8 entry fee so bring cash and sustenance for the day. It is not just a beach though, being a state park there are some trails and a hike to the top of the cliff featured in the picture below. Rock climbers spent the day climbing and rappelling off the cliff face.
We parked as close to the end of the beach as possible and it was well worth it. Being next to the cliff and surrounding rocks we saw gulls, pelicans, and even a seal popped up to say hello! The beach is picturesque and better than anything I have seen on the Atlantic. I am a sucker for mountain landscapes, though. The water is clear and the waves are strong.
I won’t explain how, I am sure its out there on the interwebs, but the cap to our perfect day was discovering a little lagoon near Point Dume. With only a handful of people exploring it, and the enclosure of the cliff around us, waves crashing and a rising tide, it gave me pause. If I leaned back and the rock next to me blocked my view of the singular group of sunbathers , I could look around and not see a soul other than Kristen. It gave us this sense of what it is like to be the only people on earth, one with nature…despite the expanse of humanity and multi-million dollar homes on the other side of the cliffs behind us. It was a moment I captured with a mental picture, an image imprinted in my memory. A new-found happy place to add to my list of happy places that include Hanauma Bay, a little beach in Mykonos, the top of Tofana Rozes in the Dolomites, overlooking Clingman’s Dome on the AT in the Smokies, Cinque Terre, and several peaks of the Austrian Alps. Places that when pictured in my mind bring me a sense of calm and awe, of being exactly where I am meant to be in that time and in that place.
All waxing poetic aside, southern California is not all celebrities, expensive stores, and models. Its true essence lies in the beauty of its landscape and the vigor of its lifestyle. These places and experiences were wonderful and perfect. I cannot wait to return and share them with my husband. I hope I have inspired you to visit one day too!
